The Bra Adventures: I'll Be The Judge of That

So, for the past 10 days I was at jury duty - 6 of those days were spent participating in an actual criminal trial and, let me tell you, it was fascinating. No, Law and Order it is not. But I have so much respect for this democratic convention. My fellow jurors were intelligent, caring, thoughtful and they approached the process with fairness and an open mind. I highly encourage everyone to embrace jury duty (as long as it does not put you in a position of financial hardship, of course)...

On other matters, my spirit of judgement is alive and well - when it comes to lingerie! (How's that for a dicey segue?)

To wit, my latest - the Retro Chic Full Cup Bra from Wacoal - which comes, of course, with a story:

Photo from here (not where I bought it) - this is the "cappuccino" colourway cuz I couldn't find a decent shot of the beige. I do like the fact that this small woman has an actual, ample bust.

I know - right now you're thinking one or all of the following things:

• That bra is splendidly ugly.
• Doesn't Kristin constantly go on about her hatred of the Wacoal brand (despite knowing that Wacoal purchased Eveden - the parent of numerous other brands she's liked)?
• That's a 2-piece cup. I thought three-piece cups were better from a fit perspective.
• How much money did she spend on that thing?

Allow me to address each of these.

I am diligently on the hunt for a new "nude" bra. I have one left and it's on its last legs. I'm actually about a week away from panicking over its demise, and the impending hole in my wardrobe, so keep your fingers crossed. And, as they say, desperate times call for desperate measures. 

Now, having conceded that, I'm not insane. I did go to the store to try this thing on. It's one of those bras, like the Triumph Doreen, that you must wear lest it wear you. And, my friends, if it wears you it's a bad scene.

Here's what I can say: The versions of this bra in contrast colours (black/white, rose/white etc.) are potentially very unflattering to a large bust, given the two piece construction. This bra provides a pointy shape. Often, pointy bras are seemed horizontally over the midline of the bust with the larger cup being on the bottom (naturally) and the top cup pushing breast tissue down (delicately, of course), towards the centre seam. This is a common way that seaming is used to achieve a retro shape. In women of larger breasts, the downward-pull pushes a lot of volume into the lower cup, enhancing its appearance (particularly when clothes are not on). When the lower cup is in a darker contrast colour, that appearance is magnified still further. 

I think the beige colour is very flattering against my skin-tone. It's also very easy to match with numerous undies I already own. Furthermore, the straps are fairly delicate (maybe in contrast to the tank-quality of the rest of the bra). Because the beige version is more or less monotone, it doesn't over-emphasize the lower cup. But don't be mistaken, it's definitely a bra that goes in that direction. Like I said, you have to work your 1950s sexy when you wear this. You can only wear it in that spirit and to project that attitude.

Now, if your breasts are large, heavy, dense and very full on the bottom - this bra can look bad. (It can also look good - fit is very personal - but be advised, it has a lot of matronly potential.) Further in response to the claim that it is ugly, this bra is SO high in the upper cup that you cannot wear a scoopy shirt. I'm cool with that. I have lots of tops that it will work very well underneath (namely zillions of sweaters and crew tops I own). The gore is very high (but so are the cups, so the proportion isn't odd like it can be with certain Panache styles, for example). You could wear it with a blouse, just nothing that goes much below the breastbone. This bra is meant to repress cleavage, not to encourage it.

I sense I'm not helping to dispel the idea that this bra is ugly.

So let's move on to the topic of my omnipresent displeasure with Wacoal. A while ago, I took a friend for bra-fitting and we purchased this style for her in the black and white colourway. It looks surprisingly elegant on breasts in the 34C-36DD range, fyi. I observed, at that time, that the bra is very stable with a fantastic, firm (and wide) band. It is well-constructed from good materials. It's old-school and, in that respect, of good quality. The matching undies complete the retro look. BTW, it's not insanely pointy by any stretch. I've seen way pointier in my time.  What I also appreciate about this bra, my feelings about the brand notwithstanding, is that it comes in a wide range of sizes, and it's available at most department stores. Sure, Wacoal does ridiculous sizing - A-D, DD, DDD and then F and G (I think it stops there and, what's bizarre is that the seems to be half US and half UK) - but it's readily available and affordable. 

I'm a bit anxious about my recent purchase (story will follow) because Veronica purchased one about a year ago and she said it doesn't lift well and that one's breasts tend to descend in the course of the day. Needless to say, that's a deal breaker, but neither of us can say, at this point, if she got a bad bra or if it's bad design. I guess I'll be the guinea pig.

Getting back to the two- vs three- (or more) piece cup debate, three-piece cups (depending on a variety of factors) will fit a wider range of breast shapes with a more natural silhouette. They also tend to provide more projection. So yeah, I almost NEVER opt for a 2-piece cup (given my size and shape), but it has its place. It really does provide that lovely ski-slope silhouette.

Finally, do not imagine that I spent the standard retail price on this bra. In Canada, it goes for $75 at the big box stores. That's a fair price for the quality, I think (if it actually keeps gravity at bay). I found a NWT one on eBay for 30 bucks all in. That's my kind of experiment. 

So, today's questions: Have you tried this bra, owned this bra, thought of burning this bra? Are you aware that Butterfly Collection is selling it online in a beautiful colourway (though, again, mind if you're above a DD cuz the contrast may emphasize lower bust volume). Do you think it's hideous, jolie-laide or kind of cool (in a retro way)? Let's talk!

PS: Totally off topic - Figleaves is having a very good sale on the Panache Jasmine (in the floral colourway). The set is 30% off! Do let me know if you opt to get it. You can refer to my review of the bra (in the bird pattern) here.

The Summer Series: Reflection

You know that I'm not the most patient person. I come up with an idea and then my entire being is propelled in the direction of its completion. Sure, I think a lot about it. I try to resolve issues. I read and ask questions. But in my house we have a saying (as we wake in the mornings): What are you still doing in bed?? That crafting isn't going to do itself.

Whenever I'm forced by circumstances to wait, I'm ALWAYS amazed by how useful it is. Had I cut my bra fabric yesterday, when first I wrote my post, I would have missed out on two additional paper alterations that may really improve the fit, the absence of which might have had negative fit repercussions. (See yesterday's post for the updates - they're marked as such.)

This doesn't mean I'm likely to change my ways. I'm bullish by nature, when you get right down to it. Though I do like to flirt with consideration on occasion.

The truth is that I've been working for the last couple of weeks in a very focused fashion on the Fitted Boucle Jacket (remember this?). Clarification: When my head has allowed for it, I've worked on this. There was a period of a few days where it wasn't possible to do much more than get myself from A to B.  Furthermore, I have been working on the project, in one capacity or another, since the beginning of April if you include all of the fitting math I had to sort out - and I most definitely DO.

Here's a rather meh shot of the back piece blocking:

It actually blocked to proportions perfectly and became super soft, but not loose. I highly recommend Finch yarn (by Quince). I think it will provide this jacket with optimal structure and the right amount of give.

I think you'll agree, unflattering shot aside that, after washing, you cannot see where I changed needle size. (Note that the fabric looks a bit mottled because it's still wet in this pic.)

I actually blocked this over a week ago. Since then I've made 2 pockets, the left front and (hopefully today - the most miserable, wet day yet again) I'll finish the right front. I'm going to machine the buttonholes so I haven't been working those into the fabric, fyi.

You may think: Hey Kristin, you're doing really well. It's almost done!

I urge you to consider what remains:

• The sleeves
• The collar
• The cuffs
• Seaming the entire thing together - peeps, on fingering yarn, mattress stitch is a production
• Hand sewing petersham to the hem (wonder how this is going to work, in truth)
• Hand sewing petersham to the button band areas
• Practicing hand sewing petersham onto the gauge swatch and then practicing making the buttonholes using my new machine.
• Actually inserting the buttonholes
• Sewing on the buttons

Fuck. This thing is really endless. If I don't complete it before I go on hols at the beginning of July (and finishing the pieces is the only part I can take with me on vacation - much of the work that remains is actually sewing), then I'm not likely to finish it before the end of July.

Peeps, that'll be 4 months of regular activity (albeit done in waves) on the same garment. We know I'm not a procrastinator when it comes to knitting. My point is, this project is huge.

So, today's questions are: What's the most complex knitting or sewing project you've undertaken? How long did it last and are you happy with the results? Are you a reflective person when it comes to your crafts? Do you wait and think after making alterations, before you cut your fabric? Let's chat!

PS: I'm likely to be MIA again for some of next week. Without getting into it, I'm in the midst of performing a civic obligation and it requires all of my attention.

Updated (Again): The Summer Series: Yeah, I'm Gonna Make Another Bra

Since I seem to be all on about bras, let me tell you how I'm approaching the Cherry Bomb (bra and undies set), the second sewing bracket of the Summer Series. (The first bracket, The Five in Five, is now complete.)

You may recall that this is the kit I'll use to make the set - or just the bra if I cannot perfect the fit. I don't wear unmatched undies:

I intend to make a modified version (info to follow) of this pattern. Interestingly, it's from the same vendor from whom I purchased the kit (though I've had the bra pattern for a long while).

I've made the bra before. It was a fit failure. Every bra I've ever made has been a fit failure for the following reasons (women of fuller bust, who want to make their own lingerie, take heed):

• The materials were inferior - specifically the wires but really many of the materials are not up to the same standards as high-quality RTW bra materials. Materials available for home use tend to have too much stretch and are not designed, necessarily, to work together in the same bra.

• My sewing skills may have been lacking - I say "may" because I've made many bras at many stages of sewing ability and I don't think that this is the case in recent bra-making. Sewing bras is not difficult, but it's finicky. It requires patience and a steady stitch. The ability of one's machine to sew through many layers equally well is pivotal.

• I've been making bras designed for a bust of a different shape than the one I have. Sure, in the time of my pattern purchasing, I've moved more towards bras that work on a larger, deeper bust, but Ladies, they are far and few between at a certain cup size. Add in the variables provided by material ease and it's a very tricky proposition. There's a good argument to be made that I should draft bras from my own stash (I've actually done this before, and it wasn't successful - not that it wouldn't be in the future). I'd say, till you've made a few bras from a pattern, and you learn the steps / how the seam allowances must be added, it's tricky to make your own pattern. It's very easy to miss a step.

Now, the fact that I've spent the last two years intently interested in a) fit and b) RTW bras in general and c) fit of RTW bras puts me in a very good position to try again. Not that I'm getting hopeful. The variables are endless and there is NOTHING one can ever make that requires perfect fit as much as a bra. Except shoes, maybe.

For purposes of being able to picture this, here's a nice 3-piece, seamed bra:

Y'all know this is my fave bra, the Empreinte Roxane. Honestly, the curve of the side cup where it meets the strap is JUST gorgeous on this style - I may adapt my pattern further if I can ever get it to fit.

Note how the 3 pieces all converge at the nipple height. Specifically the two bottom pieces seam together at a point. The top piece floats above that seam but, of course is seamed at an alternate angle to the under-pieces, connecting on the one side at the band or side cup where it moves up towards the strap, and on the other side at the centre gore. The reason the Roxane is so supportive and able to lift (different than support, peeps) is because the strap attaches to the under cup, which also goes up the side of the breast. It's not merely attaching to the floating top piece.

Alas, on the CUPL16, the strap attaches to the floating upper cup, which will diminish the lift it's able to provide... I will aim to fix this if I ever work out cup depth. One thing at a time... Updated: I couldn't resist making this change in this version - see bullet below ** for more info.

Depending on the construction of a bra and, presumably many other features - some of which I may not be aware of - the best way to add depth is by increasing the amount of fabric where the 2 lower cups adjoin at the centre of the cup unit (aka the full bra cup). If you add the extra fabric to the outer lower cups, where they join the band, you'll just screw with band dimensions and actually find yourself making a shallower bra than that defined by the pattern you started out with. Ask me how I know.

If you increase the length of the top cup - and you're not also aiming to widen the bra / you do not have full on top breasts - you'll get gaping.

With this in mind, here are the many adjustments I've made to this version of CUPL16, may the lingerie goddess be with me:

• I shortened the gore by 1/2 inch. Now it's at 3.5 inches in height - at the upper limit of height on my frame and given my preferences.

• I narrowed the gore at the band base by 1 inch and tapered to nothing at the top of the gore. This is a risk, but the original version was so unnaturally wide at the base. It didn't suit my shape and it was clumsy looking. I also sense it leads to a shallower cup shape, though I can't describe how.

• I stayed with the original back size pattern piece I'd cut for a previous version (80) because the side cup height is good with that band size and I didn't want to have to redraft every piece. Instead, I chopped 2 inches off the back band (1 inch which will apply to each side) and graded the curve towards the closure areas. Depending on how firm I'm able to make the band - Seraphinalina gave me some great Powernet that's very firm so I'm hopeful - I may have to cut more.

• *I cut half an inch off of the top cup piece at the centre front (to match the amount I shortened the gore) and tapered to 1 inch at the side cup because, really, the top cup was too much bra for me. (See below for an update on this - turns out I didn't stop here...)

You'll note, so far, every adjustment has been to diminish the dimensions of the bra, the original version of which I've already mentioned was too small. Hmmm... To increase the size of this bra to fit me - a woman of very deep breasts that are not wide on a narrow frame aka projectile boobs - adjustment of the lower pieces is necessary.

• Keeping in mind what I said, above, I increased 1/2 inch on each lower piece where it joins at the centre of the cup - that is to say I increased an inch in total at the vertical seam that runs towards the nipple. I presume this will increase the cup depth by an inch, without widening the cup, so the extra fabric can be taken up by the volume of my centre and lower bust.

• Updated: OK, it has occurred to me, while all of these alterations swirl in my mind, that by deepening the centre of the cup as per the bullet point above, I will also need to increase the length of the part of the cup that attaches to the upper sides of the lower cups aka the part where the upper cup is seamed to the lower pieces. I did a little bit of seam checking by 1. pinning the 1" deepened lower cup pieces together and then 2. walking the upper cup seam (that attaches to the lower pieces) along the length of the pinned lower cup pieces - effectively I pinned it together as I'll sew it. And, as I suspected, the upper cup piece was about an inch too short. It makes sense. However, I don't want to increase the upper cup at the top of that cup (the part that supports the upper breast in the cup) because, as stated above*, I don't want too much fullness there, or any additional height. The solution I've come up with is to vertically slash the upper cup piece where it meets the vertical seam of the lower pieces (about half way along its length) all the way up to the top, leaving a little hinge (you know, like you do with an FBA). I'll spread the slash by 1" and tape some paper behind that wedge. Then, I'll tape some more paper to the top of the pattern piece (which will be distorted by the creation of the wedge on the lower side) so that it regains the original shape. This alteration, added to the initial upper piece alteration*, will give me the depth in the centre of the cup, without adding any fabric or additional volume to the top of it. At least that's my theory right now. 

• Updated: I decided to take the plunge (no pun intended!) and to adjust the side lower piece so that the strap will affix to it, and not to the floating upper piece. I looked at my Roxane and tried to approximate the lines. Then I added .25" seam allowances to the new cut line (cuz I will have to attach the side lower piece to the upper cup piece, albeit in a new place. I really hope I did this right.

Of course, I could be wrong about this. It wouldn't be the first ninth time.

Additionally, I intend to make the band as firm as I can (with new materials) and I'm going to use wires reclaimed from an RTW bra. I've got stretch-free underlining I could use for all cups, including the upper cup I'll make from stretch lace. It's really not a problem for me to have stretch in the upper cup, as long as the lower cups fit perfectly and the strap attaches to the outer, lower cup. In this instance, depending on how I attach the strap, I may need to reduce the stretchability of the upper cup.

So, there you go. I haven't cut anything (but the new pattern pieces). I'm hoping that, if any of you have thoughts or advice about what I've written, that you might provide some useful additional info I can take into the process.

Today's questions: Bra-makers - have you ever successfully added depth to a 3-piece cup (not width) and, if yes, how did you accomplish it? Everyone: Given that bras like the Roxane already exist in the world, and the manufacturers of said bras have access to all the best materials and machines, do you think I'm insane to pursue bra-making, yet again? Feel free to be honest!

Ask The Bra Fitter: Some More Great Answers to Some More Great Questions

Thanks, everyone, for your comments and emails this week. My headache is much better, if lingering, and I think that life may resume with some degree of normalcy by the middle of next week. 

In the meanwhile - and I so appreciate your patience - here are a couple of additional bra-fitter answers. 

Gillian asks:

Yay! I love this series!  I've always worn 36 or 38 bands, but then my sis mentioned she wears a 34 and when I looked up my under-bust measurements, I'm 34 inches too. For years I think I wore 38s because I didn't want a tight band to give me horrible back fat bumps! These days I'm wearing 36s... but should I try a smaller band? How tight is right? And is there any way to avoid the back fat issue? Help! 

Hi Gillian, I'm so pleased you like the series! You want the band of your bra to be snug enough to secure the bra to your body. This gives optimal support, better lift and takes pressure off your shoulders. The back of your bra should sit parallel to the ground, anchored under your shoulder blades. Symptoms of a too lose band include heavy pressure on the shoulders (the band should be taking most of the weight of your bust), the need to constantly re-adjust the bra by pulling the band down, and the scenario in which the band arcs up rather than sitting straight across your back. 

 

There are competing methods of measuring band size. The department store/big brand method is to take your raw under bust measurement and add a whopping 4 to 6 inches. This will likely result in a band that's too big (this measurement system is encouraged as it puts most women within the standard A-DD bra sizes that department stores / Victoria's Secret churn out). The current wave of bra fitters encourage you to add zero inches to your under bust measurement. Personally I vacillate between adding zero and adding about 2 inches. I'd suggest trying on a 34 band (remembering that as you go down in the band you will have to go up in the cup in order to get the same cup volume) to see how it feels. You should be able to breathe comfortably and should not feel any pain, but it should feel snug!

I'm going to interrupt my answer to go on a small rant: Many bra bands are getting stretchier and are being cut looser! I have been fitting for over 10 years (eek!) and I have noticed this change both personally and when fitting clients. When I started bra fitting I wore a 32 band (and was often chided by my co-workers for my love of super snug bands). These days I am 20 lbs heavier and usually need a 30 band to feel secure. In the olden days I would add 2 to 4 inches to a snug under bust measurement to get a starting size for my customer. These days I add 0 to 2. I don't think that this is vanity sizing (see the Linda The Bra Lady snafu) as most women I fit are initially shocked and/or appalled when they hear they fit a 34F instead of a 38C. I would love to find out why bands have changed, as it's "outsizing" many women (i.e. 28 bands now find they need 26) and divorcing many women from their formerly favourite bra styles and companies!

 

Ed. note: I couldn't agree with this more! Bands are going super stretchy - even in the pricey brands...

Bra fitting is not exact, and I believe personal comfort should play a role. I prefer my bands quite snug, while others may want a slightly easier fit. The level of snugness depends on breast size, personal preference/experience and "squishability."  Often a full-busted  woman will want a tight band due to the weight of her breasts, whereas a smaller busted woman may feel better in a slightly easier band. A woman who's just been resized from wearing a 40 band to a 30 band may feel more comfortable compromising with a 32 if she's having trouble adjusting to her new size. Finally, many women with more padding around their ribs can easily wear a very snug band, whereas a woman with a very bony ribcage may feel discomfort in something very tight. 

 

Other ed. note: I LOVE a tighter band, as y'all know.  I think I may have gained my original perspective on this from Veronica, though it's definitely my natural preference. I do think that some people are acclimators and others are (no offense) "fussy". Some peeps grow to love a snug band - esp. when the boobs are large and projectile on a proportionately small frame. Others are just never gonna get with it. Chalk it up to basic sensitivity.

Now for the dreaded "back fat!" First off, this is the least favourite phrase of many a bra-fitter. I don't mean to scold or to go on a hippy-dippy, kumbaya, you-are-beautiful-no-matter-what-they-say trip, but all women indent where there bra wraps around their bodies. Our skin isn't rigid and rock-solid, otherwise we wouldn't be able to move. This means the bra band will press into skin of even the slenderest supermodel. Also, today's fashion is not very forgiving. It's all drapey jersey and tissue thin t shirts. 

 

But... back fat can be mitigated. First off, wearing a too-loose band will actually exacerbate the problem. A too-loose band will ride up to the place where we tend to carry more padding, and as the band creeps up throughout the day, it will push this padding up with it. A snugger band will sit at the place where we have less softness and it will stay there. Next, a broader band - or a band made of stretch lace - will usually cut in less. Finally, in a good bra you'll look so good from the front that no one will pay much attention to the back!

Other, other Ed. note: OMG - I totally agree with that final sentence!!

 

 

Anonymous asks:

I'm intrigued to know a bit more about being a bra-fitter. Did you always want to become one? Are there special perks? (No pun intended!) And since you fit people over multiple occasions, do you find that you see changes in the size and shape of their breasts over various fittings? So many blogs talk about how breast-shape changes over time. I'm curious to know if you observe this in your work?

Ahoy Anon, I'm flattered by your intrigue! I kind of fell into bra fitting. I became enamored of lingerie as soon as I was able to wear bras, however I soon blossomed to a size that was very hard to find and that was usually restricted to boring beige monstrosities.The place I work was actually the first store I shopped in where I could not only find bras in my size, but could find bras that fit me! I applied for a job soon after my first purchase. 

 

While I was excited to work with all the beautiful things I was actually very nervous to work with all the lovely people because I tend to be quite shy. After a little time I became more confident and grew to love the fact that being smushed in a little change room with a stranger could give me the opportunity to help someone (in a small way) and sometimes even have a interesting encounter (bonding over a favourite tv show, ranting about what bras are missing or even discussing personal philosophies). Most of the fitters I know have both a keen sense of aesthetics and a strong desire to help women. Also, many fitters are multi-talented and are working on small businesses, PhDs, bands or books when they are not fitting. 

Like any job, bra fitting is not always hunky dory. Many women carry a lot of self-hate about their bodies, which can make a fitter feel helpless and drained (I understand and sympathize with this self hate, I just wish there was some way to ease this). Some women have unrealistic expectations (i.e. they need a low back, strapless, plunging bra... and they wear a H cup) and some refuse to consider  advice and expertise (a woman with sloping shoulders is going to have trouble keeping the straps up on a demi bra, that's just how it is...). 

 

There are the typical customer service complaints from those who feel they can insult or mistreat service workers. Finally, it's frustrating not being able to control the size ranges and style offerings available. Although fitters and store owners can (and do!) complain to bra manufacturers, those manufacturers don't usually listen!  

 

As to perks, I'm sure they depend on the particular store. Most stores will give fitters some sort of discount. Fitters often get a sneak peek at upcoming styles when sales reps visit. Personally, I have had the chance to travel on buying trips, wear-test bras (so we know whether to bring them in to the store) and have received gift bras from companies hoping to promote their brand. 

I don't feel that breast shape drastically changes over time. Some women will loose a bit of top fullness over time (I've noticed this with age and weight fluctuations), but most changes are in size and firmness. Generally a customer with close-set, full-on-top breasts will retain roughly the same shape. With age her breasts may sit a little lower, and may be a bit softer, but they will generally stay the same. Size and firmness changes through weight loss, weight gain, nursing and menopause. It also can change with hormonal fluctuations (birth control pills), breast tissue migration (pockets of "armpit fat" are often breast tissue that has been rearranged due to ill-fitting wires), and relationship status (this sounds screwy, but many women have noticed their breasts are a bit fuller when they are receiving more amorous attention).

Brief Update

Hey peeps: Things here are remarkably busy these days and I have a few exceptional things on the go (which I must prioritize). By the time I have 2 minutes to write, I'm too tired to do anything other than lie on the couch - and my headache has been acting up (for want of a better way to refer to one's semi-regular migraine). Please bear with me. I'll write when I can (really, I have lots to say) but posts may be sporadic for the next week or so.

The Summer Series: Five in Five, Take Five

OK, brief intro on other matters - the next in the Ask The Bra Fitter series will be up tomorrow. Veronica just moved house and she's been getting settled...

But back to the Five in Five. It's done. It's over. I've met the terms of the challenge I set for myself (five garments in five weeks). Can't say I had much fun, all things considered, but I learned a LOT.

Here's Vogue 1287, a dress that does not photograph well on a mannequin (alas):

I swear I steamed the shit out of this thing and it still looks like a pile of wrinkles

Oooh, pretty pleats (and a little shot of the coverstitched sleeve hem). Man, I love that coverstitch machine.

The piece de resistance is the back - particularly the pocket construction:

I'm about to say a lot about this thing, so apologies in advance.

For starters - as you can probably tell, this is a wearable muslin. One might argue barely wearable.

My new Viking is not handling knits well at all. I believe I'm going to have to take it for a tune-up because all of the top stitching (not done by coverstitch) looks like the work of drunk mice. It's very distressing to spend 20 hrs making a fucking knit dress only to find the final seam makes it look like crap.

But never mind the mea culpas, let's get down to the crux of the matter. This is most definitely an advanced project, amongst the most advanced I've ever tried. It's as close to tailoring as you can get with a knit dress. The instructions, as always with Vogue knit patterns, are horrible, and given the complexity of construction, I would have been lost without this video tutorial that shows, very clearly, how to insert the pockets. I am so grateful for these resources...

On the body it is a Grecian delight. This thing is so, so gorgeous. I will most definitely make it again, now that I've ironed out the kinks. It's elegant. Sophisticated. Intricate. Interesting. And it fits me like a glove.

You'll recall, most of the (few) reviews of this pattern are not complimentary. I sense that's because the minuses of construction far outweigh the pluses of the finished product for most wearers. While I cut anywhere from a 10 to a 14 in Vogue patterns, this one does fit large. Mind you, I made my standard Vogue knit size - a 10 - and with very few alterations this fits me very well. Honestly, I shortened the skirt by 3 inches (I could have stopped at 2 or 2.5 inches, in truth) and I shortened the bodice by 1.5 inches. That's it. There's no other project I've made in the last year that required so little fit fussing.

Why? Well, my friends, this is a dress for a true hourglass with a substantial rack. I mean, seriously, if you're not in an E cup or higher, just give it a miss. In light of the pleating complexity, and the way the shoulder and neck unit is constructed, it would be painful to alter it to fit a smaller bust. Furthermore, if your hips are on the wide side, stay away. It gives a lot of profile to the derriere, in light of the volume of the pockets. There is no hiding from your curves in this dress. If you don't want to show them off - or if you don't have them - just walk away.

I'm not going to talk about the many issues I had - namely on the neck/shoulder unit construction, the pocket construction and the waistband construction but said issues were numerous - and I made much of it up on the fly, given that the instructions are just short of useless. When I said my spatial reasoning is alright, I overstated the case. Apparently, it sucks. In the end I had to remove (by a tuck on either side of the back seams) 4 inches of fabric from the skirt. I must have missed something because it was a very specific sort of excess. As a result of the drape, you can't really tell, but I mean - I worked hard and I still don't understand how this thing turned into a dress.

I'll also admit that this garment reflects some of the poorest sewing I've done in a long time - from the serging to the regular seams, it's a dog's breakfast. I'm actually embarrassed by the workmanship and, at a certain moment, I just had to give into the idea that what I've made is a legitimate muslin and the interior shows that. The fact that I may wear it a couple of times (just to test it out in the real world) is beside the point.

Here's who should NOT make it (like I'm the arbiter of who should make what?!):

• If you're small of boob - or really, even if you're on the small end of moderate of boob, just say no. Gotta say, it's nice to find a pattern that's only for the ladies with the sizeable rack.

• Those having a wide derriere or bulky hips.

• Those who don't wear bras that fit properly. This dress requires breasts that defy gravity.

• Those without all of the knit-sewing gizmos - serger and coverstitch. Sure, you could make this but it's going to look homemade on the inside and, given how complex and professional a pattern it is, it's unfortunate that the inside will not reflect the outside.

• Those who don't love working with knits. I mean it, you've gotta have the love cuz this is TRICKY.

• Those who love knits but haven't made numerous varieties of knit garments in the past. This is not like making a t-shirt or a pair of leggings. This is tailoring that requires a real sense of how to drape and how to apply a variety of techniques. You don't want to try to learn any basics on this one. All of the other shit you have to learn will keep you adequately busy.

• Those who don't have access to the appropriate fabric. Don't try this with an ITY knit. You need something like a silk jersey or a firm rayon. Even a ponte would work (if it weren't too thick and spongy). I used Tencel and it was perfect - though the fabric was on the cheap side for Tencel and it is, alas, vaguely see-through.

Everyone else, I urge you to try it! :-)

Final Thoughts on The Summer Series first bracket - The Five in Five:

I'm happy that I set and achieved this goal. In the end (btw, use the search feature with the search term "Five in Five" for more info), I made:

• a denim skirt
• a surplice sleeveless top and 
• three dresses: one with a cowl, one with a mock wrap and the one profiled above

I used only stash fabric and I've decided that, from now on, I'm buying 3 yards, as a standard, especially when working with knit fabric. I had to recut many pieces because I "muslined" as I went (as one "optimally should" with stretch garments). Not having to worry about how much fabric I had to use really helped to calm me down. The only garment I made, working on fabric fumes, was the simple denim skirt and it was stressful!

I learned, in this process, to keep my cool. I encountered numerous issues which would have, even a year ago, derailed an entire project. Sure, I have more skill now than I did then. But my greatest resource was my ability to stay calm when things went wrong. It's pretty rare to be completely unable to find some way to fix a problem. Even the mystery extra 4 inches of skirt width in the dress you see above, was easily managed with a clear head. Is it perfect? No. Is it a solution that worked? Yup.

With the exception of the mock wrap dress (the weather has been hideous, rainy and cold this spring/summer), I've worn every garment at least once - and some of them on a few occasions.

This palette is sensible (weather notwithstanding) and suitable for my lifestyle and my sartorial tastes. I like things that are stylish, basic (which is to say a well-fitted, elegant back-drop for accessories and my natural personality :-)), made of good material (I'm getting better at sourcing these) and easy-to-wear. All of these items fit the bill.

My biggest disappointment in the process is that I didn't have as much fun as I would have liked. I encountered a lot of set-backs and they undercut the pleasurable aspects of sewing. I also feel that much of my construction (esp. given how my new machine handles knits) could have been better.

Another lesson I can take from this experience is that, as long as the fabric is good, the style is attractive and the fit is excellent, the quality of sewing doesn't really matter (she says, trying to make herself feel better). Even I don't care as much about imperfect seams as I did when first I completed these garments (and I care about these kinds of things). What I notice most is the drape and hand. Of course, here's hoping I can pull it all together in the long run!

Next up, some knitting. And the Cherry Bomb bra and undies set. But I need to chill on the sewing for a couple of weeks. I'm spent.

So, today's questions: Which is your fave of the five? Do you have any interest in making V1287? What are the elements of your handmade clothes that you appreciate the most (and therefore wear the most)? Let's talk!

De-pleated

I'm home today, working on V1287. Sure, it took me an hour to consider alterations and to cut the pieces. Then it took an hour to cut. Then an hour to mark. Then an hour to baste in the pleats. But I think my low fun-expectations are standing me in good stead.

There really are a LOT of pleats:

This is the actual colour of the fabric...

This is the weirdness that happened as my flash died (following which, my camera wouldn't take any non-blurry photos)

In the end, I cut the size 10 and I don't think it's going to be too large. I altered it minimally, by shortening the skirt 3 inches and the bodice by 1.5 inches on the front and back pieces. There are lengthen-shorten lines on all of the relevant pieces, which is the only way I could figure out where exactly to make these alterations. The pieces are very tricky to interpret before the pleats go in.


So, whatcha you think of pleat insertion on knits? Do you hate it? Do you find it kind of fun in an "it never ends" way?